Hello, everyone. I am Caleb with Dansie Design Build, and in today’s video, we’re going to be talking about five different ways that you can make your basement finishing project more affordable. So without going any further, let’s just jump right in.
So if you like an open space, that’s great because that’s actually gonna be a more affordable option. Number two. Finish the bathroom or kitchen later. So you can choose if you’re doing a bathroom or a kitchen or both.
You can choose to just have
the plumbing installed, and the electrical installed in the walls. And then opt to put in the cabinets and countertops at a later date. That’s going to save
a lot of cost upfront.
So number three, choose carpet over LVP or tile wherever you can. Carpet is going to be a lot cheaper per square foot for the materials and labor to install than a LVP or a tile product. Those just take a lot more labor and materials to install.
So number four, if at all possible, leave the load-bearing walls alone. Leave them alone. Load-bearing walls are expensive to move because they require engineering, removing the wall, putting in a beam and moving and doing a lot of work there.
So if you have existing walls, if it’s at all possible, figure out a way to make the basement work without having to move those. That will make the basement
more affordable to finish. And lastly, tie in the existing furnace in with the basement
finishing HVAC system.
So when you’re finishing the basement, opt to not have an additional furnace or air conditioning unit installed in the basement. Basements don’t have very much of a heat load and so normally, the furnace that’s installed in the home can hold that, and accommodate the extra square footage living space that the basement is going to add to the home.
So there you have it. Those are five ways that you can make your basement finishing
project more affordable. Thank you for joining us today and we’ll catch you next time.
Basement tub/shower combos can be a real challenge. So in this video, we’re going to walk you through all the different steps that we took to build one. Lots of really great tips, so let’s dive in.
The first step for us was to determine how unlevel this bathroom floor was. So we placed a 4-ft level on the floor, we screwed holes into the concrete, and then we added Tapcons to indicate just how high we needed to add our self-leveler.
So you can see it was quite about 1 ½” on one end. And then we used a silicone sealant to go around the perimeter. And we actually boxed off the plumbing in this basement bathroom. So we added some of the sealant along all of the framing on the floor so that when we self-level the floor, that won’t go underneath the framing.
So we used a ShopVac to clean up any of the
dust that’s on the floor; it’s really important. Then you wipe that down with a
damp sponge. And then the next step after that is to actually add a perimeter foam to
all of the framing.
And this is going to give you an 1/8” expansion and contraction joint
along the perimeter of the entire bathroom. So again, just staple that to the studs. And
then you want to prime the concrete using the primer that goes along with your self-leveler.
So in this case, we used Laticrete’s PRIME-N-BOND. We actually let that set up for 24 hours. Then we mixed up NXT Leveler. And as you can see here, that screw head, the leveler needs to come up to it.
So we had to mix about 7 bags of NXT to get this bathroom floor nice,
flat, and level. So again, we just used our little squeegee here to get the floor looking
good. And then we let that set up for 24 hours.
Once the self-leveler sets up, you can add a mortar base for your bathtub if the directions call for that. In this case, we’re using a Kohler acrylic bathtub. The directions said to use a mortar base.
We ensured the tub was
level and the predrilled holes in the tub lip where all the studs are located. This
is important because you don’t want the tub lip to crack. And then we used stainless
steel or galvanized screws to secure the tub.
Our mixing valve was by Moen, and Moen requires a sold, metal tub spout. So we just soldered together some copper pipe using Mapp gas. And then we wrenched that into the bottom of our Moen mixing valve and connected the supply lines using Pex piping here.
And then we actually used Pex for the shower head as well. And now we secured this and centered it on the tub. For this tub surround, after we got the Moen mixing valve in, what we did next was waterproof the walls using HYDRO BAN Board.
So we applied HYDRO BAN sealant to the tub here, and then
we actually added the board down over the tub lip. And on this main wall, we were able
to do that because we actually added shims to the wall with ¼” plywood.
So as you can see here, we made a custom shower niche using the HYDRO BAN Board, which is
really cool. And then on the plumbing wall and the wall
opposite that, we actually filled the gap between the board and the tub using the same
HYDRO BAN sealant.
So this is a really great way to waterproof a tub or a shower surround.
Very quick. Easy to do. And that sealant comes in handy where the board meets up with the
drywall transition. We always get questions about that, so you can do the same method.
After waterproofing the shower walls, we used HYDRO BAN liquid waterproofing membrane on the floor. And you got to use a gauge to make sure that you get the right thickness of HYDRO BAN over top your floor.
So there’s a first coat, and we rolled that on with a 3/8”
roller. We let that dry. And then we actually used our paintbrush to go around the perimeter.
And then applied the HYDRO BAN in the opposite direction for the second coat.
So the first
coat takes a few hours to set up, then you can just immediately roll on the second coat.
Once the HYDRO BAN set up, we back buttered all of our 12” x 36” porcelain tiles,
and we used directional troweling over top the floor to set those titles.
These are really, really big tiles for a small basement bathroom, so used T-lock to also get them nice and level. Now we have our self-leveler down, but it never hurts to use a tile-leveling system with these 12” x 36” tiles.
So once all these tiles are set, we cleaned out all the
joints and prep for the next day. After the floor set out, we did all of our
prepping and planning for the shower and the tile layout. We started with the first row,
and then we worked our way up to the bottom of the shower niche.
Now that first row has
to be super level because everything is affected by that. And then we used a Schluter metal
profile at the bottom of the shower niche. We just put that behind all of our subway
Then we back buttered the sill plate tile and set that such that it was even the
slope downward toward the bathtub. Now in this case, we’re using a 2×2 porcelain
mosaic. We’re just lightly tapping it into the thinset mortar on the wall.
By the way, we ended up using the Montolit MasterPiuma to cut all those tile. This is a great tool for any tile setting, really. But it made it super easy. And then we cleaned out all those joints using a paintbrush and a sponge on the shower niche.
So once we got that done,
the next step was to set the tile on the plumbing wall and the wall opposite that. So we just
use an angle grinder and a diamond blade here to cut out a half-moon shape for the mixing
So that’s a great tool if you need to do the exact same thing. So we continued
up this wall, and we actually put our 4×12 subway tile into the shower niche. So to make
it look symmetric on the plumbing wall and the wall opposite that, we just continued
And we back buttered all these tiles. This is a tile that’s going to go
on the top of the shower niche. So we back troweled that to have more thinset so that
it wouldn’t fall off the top of the shower niche.
And then we capped that section again
using our Schluter metal profile, in this case a RONDEC piece. And then we continued
to tile up this main shower wall and to the ceiling. Now we left an expansion and contraction
joint there at the top of 1/8” to 1/16”.
And we did that for all of the walls. So you
can see, that’s how we tiled this shower. The next day, we wiped down the 2×2 tiles
in the shower niche just to make sure they’re clean. And then we mixed up our grout and
grouted that with a mocha color.
Now, the cool thing about this grouting process is that we used Permacolor Select by Laticrete, and you can add color packets to the grout base. So this grout base in that bag is a gray color. We just added our mocha color packet and we grouted the floor in mocha and the shower niche in mocha.
But then we used
the same grout base with a bright white color packet to grout our shower walls. And this
actually saved us time and money. So definitely check out Permacolour Select.
We let the grout on the floor set up overnight, and then we added our vanity here.
we did is we made sure that the vanity is level first; it’s super important. And then
what we did is we found the studs in the wall. So we marked the position of the studs. We
just used two galvanized screws to secure the vanity to the wall.
And then we applied
a silicone sealant along the perimeter of the top of the vanity. So again, you want
to do this because you’re going to seal the sink top to the vanity. And then once
that was secured in place, we added all of our plumbing on the bottom.
So we connect our supply lines and our P-Trap. It’s important to have the closet flange be above the tile floor. So in this case, we added the closet flange. We need to drill hole through that and into the concrete and through the tile and add Tapcons to secure the closet flange.
It’s really important, again, to do that. And then we added our wax
ring on top of the closet flange and positioned our closet flange bolts such that they were
the right distance from the drywall. And then we just compressed our toilet over top of
the wax ring and then secured it to the floor.
This Moen mixing valve came with a trim kit;
it’s a brass trim kit. You want to attach the tub to the copper. You have your escutcheon
that goes over top of the mixing valve and the handle. Now you can adjust this handle
and the temperature, so make sure you do that.
Hot tip here: just use a screwdriver; put that into the shower arm to position that shower arm where you want it. And then you can add Teflon tape to the threads of the shower arm. So about 6 to 7 revolutions should do.
Then you can hand-tighten the shower head. And then use either a crescent wrench or some
pliers. Just be careful of the pliers when you tighten down on the shower head. You don’t
want to scratch that.
And just test everything to make sure that the plumbing works and you
have good pressure. This is what the finish showed looks like.
We’re really happy with the results and hope it gives you good ideas.
If you want more detailed tips on how to build a basement tub/shower combo, our online course on phenomenal. It’s not available over on bathroom repair tutor. You can click right here. We’ll also put a link down in the description.
So if you’re doing this kind of basement project, that course is perfect for you. Thanks for watching today’s video. If you have any questions, add them down in the comments. We’re more than happy to help you out.