Tag Archives: multi-tool

Small Bedroom Closet Remodel

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Hey what’s up I’m Andrew Bacon, and this is our teeny, tiny master, bedroom closet and I have had enough – and so I’m gonna rip everything out of here, redesign the whole space and make it this awesome.

New stylish and efficient closet and I’d love to show you how I did it on this episode of field treasure designs, and here we go. We took everything out. I cannot believe how much we had managed to stuff in this closet.

So thankfully my wife helped me and we got all the clothes out and all the bins out and then i had to grab the shelf. We pulled that out of there and then i grabbed all my stuff. Bins: hats boxes, clothes, you know all the stuff and in no time it was empty and ready for demolition.

First, I took off some hooks that I had put in for hanging things and I took out the bars and really everything went normal. It was just your basic, you know, closet shelf demo. I had to use my knife to cut away the caulk and paint make sure it wouldn’t pull too hard and so yeah busted out the shells.

You know a piece at a time they went out pretty easy. I found an old air force practice photo on the field which is pretty cool and then just continued on shelf. By shelf. I cut away the joints and used my hammer to pop them out and yeah.

It went pretty easy, got the first shelf all done and got rid of the material, and it was on to the top shelf. I added my earmuffs because the sound of the hammer was so loud in that little closet. Okay, demolition is done.

So here’s what the closet looks like like i said it’s super tiny, but the design is gonna be real efficient and i think it’s gonna be great, so yeah, here’s what we’re working with and it’s time to get to work.

So first I measured the back wall because I’m going to line it with shiplap, then I went to my miter station in my garage, sorry about the lighting. It got kind of dark but yeah. I bought just basic mdf, uh shiplap at the hardware store since wood is so expensive these days, and I cut it to length here’s a cool tip of my saw.

By the way, it casts a shadow to help me find my mark really easily and boom all done so now it’s time to install it. So I’m going to use my nail gun to install the boards and the first board is important because we want it to be level, and so, even though there’s a gap at the top.

That’s okay, because we’re going to caulk that at the end, so once the first board is in all it is, is a matter of going down and doing each board at a time. And then the left and the right side doesn’t matter in terms of their length.

From the wall, because I’m going to put a piece of trim on each side and so it’ll look really nice at the end. I just worked my way down and it’s looking great and so once I got to the bottom, I decided to take the wall.

All the way down to the floor, so I cut out the bottom piece of trim and then I grabbed a scrap piece of mdf shiplap to use as my test to get that width perfectly. So once I got a measurement I took it to my table, saw I cut it to size and then here I’m testing it and it looks like it’s a great fit on both the left and the right side, and so now we’re good I’m using my multi-tool to cut away the other trim so that that last piece of ship shiplap can fit in there and be nice and snug and we’re good.

So now I’m just going to nail it in and then I’m going to put those trim pieces on each side so they’re on the right where I am there, I’m going to also cut out that trim later on, and here we go all done.

The next thing. I wanted to do was install a light that would be wired into a switch, so i’m cutting out the hole for a can light and I shoved it up there. These are super easy to install and since I have attic access right there, it makes this really easy.

So once that was ready, I ran the wires down next to the closet door, and here I am installing a light switch. I am so pumped to get rid of that pull chain light and have an actual toggle switch right next to the door.

So here I’m just doing your basic switch wiring in and I get it all connected and then once it’s secure I can put the face plate on which is like the most satisfying thing ever and then my awesome helper.

He gets to help me see if it works all right turn it on woohoo looks great huh. Can I see yeah while I was doing the light and electrical work? My awesome wife was painting the shiplap black man, it’s looking sweet and there’s that new light.

Now it’s time to cut the boxes, so I’m cutting my three quarter: inch mdf to start the process for making the boxes for the shelf units. Each side of the closet is going to have a tall shelf system and then a stacking hanger system for all the hanging clothes.

The track saw, makes cutting these long cuts awesome. So for the shelf units, I want them to be adjustable, so I’m using the craig pin jig system, which this is my first time using it, and it is incredible.

So I used a standard block. So I knew where to start my holes on each side and then yeah you just go through and use the template to drill out the holes. It has all the hardware you need and then once you’re done, you can take it out and then it has a little pin that you put in and then you mark where you left off now it removes one of the holes that you’ll drill so you’re, not As efficient but yeah, you drill five more holes and then just continue the process.

So I started with just using my hand, and then I realized that I might want to use a clamp, and so i used one of my bench clamps and so that worked well and then I realized later as you’ll, see here in a minute that I actually Had a kreg clamp that worked even better and yeah, you just keep going down the end and it works amazing.

Here i am on the other side going all the way along and, as you can see, there’s a lot of holes to drill but yeah. This thing is awesome. I highly recommend it if you’re doing any adjustable shelving the next day.

I had more to do as you can see it’s a little colder in my shop and now I’m using that kreg clamp, which I think is the best clamp with this system. So there we go done next. I cut the top shelf for each unit.

That will stretch all the way across both sides of the closet. Here, I’m cutting the main box bottom and I’m doing a shelf in the middle that’ll be attached permanently. Here’s what I’ve got so far. I’ve got the size of my boxes that my wife already painted black with the holes drilled in them, then I’ve got the top shelves on each side and then I’ve got a bottom and then a middle shelf that I will attach permanently before I assemble the boxes.

I need to cut out the carpet so that they can rest on the subfloor, so I took the bottom base to use as my measurement next, I grabbed my multi-tool to cut away the base trim there so that the box can fit in nice and flush with The wall grab my little crowbar, which, by the way that thing is super handy and cut away a little bit more and then I just worked my way around okay cool.

Now I fit my piece in to make sure it fit good. Okay, it’s good! Now, I’m going to use this template to cut away the carpet now this tool is super cheap, but it is super important. I cannot believe how great it is at cutting carpet.

I’m going to link to it in the show notes below I tried hard to like get out of the way of the camera, but yeah make a couple cuts and again be real. Careful, do not slice a finger here and yeah just work.

My way around make sure I’m nice and straight. I don’t want to go through that corner and then finally, I was able to get the carpet out a nice clean square, and now I’ve got carpet tacking and the carpet pad the pad comes out pretty easily.

There’s staples that hold it down. I use the knife to cut it away and now I’m ready to clean up the area. I grab my pry bar to take away the carpet pad staples that they had put in, and then I also used my pry bar to get rid of the carpet.

Tacking, the multi-tool works great to cut it away, and so here I thought I might save those just in case, but I ended up not needing them and boom. Now we’re all ready to go. It’s nice and clean and yeah it’s going to be awesome.

Then I just repeated the exact same process on the other side, where my wife’s side of the closet is going to be after I got done, I went and cut down two three-quarter inch pieces of plywood that I’m going to use as the sub layer, and so here I am installing it and that’s going to be where the box rests on it’s going to be exactly flush with the carpet, which is awesome, sweet now, let’s check on the other pieces, so back in the garage all my pieces are painted and we’ve been testing Out the configuration with my boxes and bins, a laundry hamper things like that, so we are ready to put these boxes together.

So I started with the first box shelf, and so here I am laying out the pieces on my work table. First, I did a little vacuum sesh, just to make sure everything was cleaned up and then it was time to start the assembly.

So I wanted to get it all together, then move it into the closet. So I laid it out. We decided to measure where I wanted that middle shelf to go, and then I started by attaching the bottom first once I got the bottom attached, I then rolled it on its side to carefully install the middle shelf.

This side was a little tricky as I needed to make sure it was nice and lined up, but yeah. It worked out great before fully attaching the middle shelf. I wanted to roll it again and then at the top, I’m using one little piece of mdf to hold it together at the top.

It’s also going to have the top shelf holding it secure and it’s going to be mounted against the wall into the studs through the drywall, and so I don’t need that much. But for now I want to make sure it’s nice and secure so with every attaching point by the way and every fastener I did a pilot hole and then I did a little bit of a recessed uh hole and then i drilled in the screw and I Used drywall screws, since those are coarser and they bite a little bit better into the mdf.

Then I got my middle shelf nice and secure after it was laying on top of itself. As you see here, then came the dilemma of the other side, so I did a quick flip and it worked out great. Luckily the parts were nice and secure and nothing broke.

So then I just needed to connect them, so I decided that it was better to have it start on its side. I slid the side into place and then I was able to attach the bottom and go from there for the next two attachments.

I went ahead and rolled it onto its side again just so I could be pointing down for my pilot holes and then attaching the fasteners. I just repeated the same process. I did make sure i measured to make sure they were even.

I wanted to make sure that shelf was going to be nice and level so yeah, just a few more fasteners, and now the middle shelf is nice and secure. Next, I moved on to the top just to secure that top part, and we got that done and now the first box has been assembled.

I flipped it over to make sure we’re looking good and yeah sweet. The last step for the boxes was to install a little screen mold on the faces, and this stuff is readily available at the big box store it’s made of pine, and then I just used three quarter inch nails to tack them onto the front, and so it Just gives it a nice finished, look for the end and then that little bottom there is going to hang over that carpet just a little in the closet which works out great.

So after I got all that done, we moved it to the floor and then I went ahead and filled all the holes. As you can see, I’ve got my family hanging out my wife’s getting ready to paint for the holes. I use DAP alex plus spackling, which I love.

After all, the holes were filled and smoothed out. We let it dry for a couple minutes. Then my awesome wife went ahead and rocked her painting skills. While I went to work assembling the next shelf box, you can see my family coming in and out, which is one of the reasons I love doing projects at home, so after it was all done, it was time to move the first box into position.

I don’t think I realized how big this shelf unit box was, but it actually worked out great and another fun thing was my other daughter came in and helped us out moving this one in and so this side that you see right here, it’s going to go Against the wall, so it didn’t need to be painted and so yeah with a little bit of maneuvering.

We were able to get it in and it’s going to slide right on that three-quarter inch piece of plywood. So it’s level with the carpet and then there it is boom. It’s looking great. All I have to do is attach it to the wall.

Next, I grab the top shelf to do a dry, fit to make sure I have my measurements right, everything’s good. I had already attached the screen molding on the front and painted it so now I just need to level it up.

I grabbed a block there to put underneath I did some nails temporarily. Then I drilled some pilot holes and now I’m doing longer, two and a half inch screws to hold this guy into place after we’re done we’ll putty in those holes and paint them black.

Then a little bit of adjusting and I grabbed a stool and then I was able to get my nail gun up there and pop some nails into that shelf, just to hold it in place after I attached the shelf, I was able to get a measurement for The side trim piece, so I didn’t show you, but I ripped down some mdf.

We painted it black and now I’m installing the trim board on each side and then, after that, we’ll go in and touch up paint against the ceiling and the wall, and all that you see there. I wanted to beef up my hanging rods, and so I went ahead and cut out of the three quarter inch pieces of plywood.

I had some backer boards that I can attach the rods to so after I cut them. I sanded them and then I needed to paint them all black, and so I was trying to save time by painting them all in bulk, and you know as usual when you go to try to save time.

Oh my that was amazing, so yeah. Luckily, aside from getting a little black paint on my pants, which is no big deal, it worked out great. So while I let those dry, I went ahead and busted out the track saw to cut the last pieces for the shelf boxes, the adjustable shelves.

So i ran the length and the width of them, and then I just went down the line and cut them to the right length. Now I needed to cut them a little bit shorter than the width of the box so that they would be able to slide in and out after that, my boards were dry, and so now I’m able to attach the closed rods to these beefy or three-quarter inch Pieces of plywood so that there’s just a little bit more strength when I attach them to the wall and the cabinet box.

These closet rods are working great I’ll link, those below in the show notes as well. I love that there’s a tab on the top there. That’s an additional support, which is part of the reason I wanted to use these three quarter inch pieces of blocking.

While I finished up the raws, my wife started prepping the shelves for paint and then she knocked out paint after that I went ahead and attached the screen mold to the front of each shelf as well, and so once that was done, we filled the holes.

We painted the fronts and then, after that we were ready to bring them in the house and install them first. I installed all of the clothes hanger rods and they went in great as you can see there they’re stacking so one on top the other, and then you can see a few bends that i’ve got in place kind of ready to go as i adjust the shelves Here in a second, and then this is the other side they’re in there nice and secure and yeah the clothes are going to be awesome and yeah.

That’s the other shelf unit. There ready to go and man we are looking good to hold all the adjustable shelves in place. I used five millimeter nickel plated shelf pins and they work perfectly in those holes.

So what’s fun is we got to configure this? The way we wanted – and so i slid in my shelves in the exact heights that i want them and if we want to change it, we can totally do that later and so once i got all the shelves in the right spot, it was just a matter Of adding all the bins, and so the first bin at the bottom on my side, is an ikea bin for a laundry hamper, and then we found these other awesome bins that fit the shelf perfectly for the smaller items and so yeah.

We just slid them into place, and then it was time to move into the closet for the first time and there you have it our mini closet that we have now maximized to its fullest and i’m telling you after using it for about a week now.

I am so thankful. I took the time to make this closet efficient and maximize the space and just make it our own. It has been so awesome, especially for a space that you use all the time right. So hey thanks so much for watching.

I hope it was helpful, don’t forget to hit that like button and subscribe and I’ll see you on the next video thanks.

Source : Youtube

DIY Small Bathroom Remodel | Bath Renovation Project

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What’s up guys, I’m Brad Rodriguez from Fix This, Build That, and today I’m going to show you how to remodel this small contractor basic bathroom and gave it a whole new look with a custom tiled shower surround in all new fixtures.

Stay tuned. I’Ll! Show you just how I did it. This is the small bathroom I’ll be working on it’s 6 foot by 5 foot, excluding the bathtub and has two doors in it to boot. It was also the contractor basic package with bland flooring.

A sheet mirror generic lights in a basic shower. So when my friends at the Home Depot challenged me to remodel a bathroom, I just jumped on the opportunity. I started pulling all the old fixtures out of the bathroom, the toilet and vanity go relatively fast is they’re.

Just unfastened, But the mirror took a little bit of a finesse because it’s glued to the wall. We donated or sold all the old fixtures we could, since they still work great Now. Unfortunately, there’s really no way to get a one-piece shower surround out of a bathroom without hacking it to bits.

I started. Removing the hardware and here’s a little tip for the tub spouts Take a picture of the underside of the spout. If you see a set screw, it’s likely a friction fit. You just loosen that set screw and then pull the spout off.

If there’s no set screw there, It’s a threaded fit and you just unscrew the spout. After disconnecting the plumbing, I used a nine inch wide strip of plywood to score a line around the walls. Above this round, I used a smaller strip to outline the sides of this round as well.

Keeping clean lines here is going to help you down the road when it’s time for new drywall. With a hammer and a pry bar, I remove the drywall around the surround to reveal the flange. That’s used to secure the shower to the wall studs beneath. I checked behind the surround to make sure there is no wires or pipes and then I started cutting. And you definitely want to wear a dust mask here. While you’re doing this. The fiberglass is pretty nasty, but a sharp blade and a reciprocating saw makes quick work of the walls.

I couldn’t quite get through the base of the tub, though, But I got it down to a small enough size where we could pull it out. The last piece left was the floor. I used a pry bar and pulled the flooring up, which apparently wasn’t attached very well because it came up really easily and we replaced the Flooring with a modern white large format tile and it really helps make a small bathroom feel bigger.

I made a whole video on replacing the floor, so I won’t cover that today, but you can go check out the full video. There’s a link below and at the end of the video with a clean slate. It was time to start building the bathroom back up and we wanted to go with a bright Look to make.

This small space seem bigger and we also wanted custom touches to give the bathroom a high-end feel and The most involved upgrade was the Delta up style wall system and bathtub, And the plumbing connections needed to be moved to fit.

The new tub and I’d highly recommend using a licensed plumber for that. I pre-drilled holes in the flanges for the install. Then I hooked up the drain and overflow connections on the tub, And once these were set, I secured the tub to the studs with panhead screws.

I used shims any place where the tub was a little off the studs to avoid cracking the flange Next up. I did my first dry fit of the up style wall system, we’re using. I put the back and left wall in a place to check for fitment and the right wall needs cutouts for the plumbing.

So I took measurements and I made cutouts for the spouts in the mixer valve. The up style system is supported by furring strips on the wall. Now one thing I’d have done differently. If I did it again, though, Is that add more vertical studs in there as well and make these 12 inches on center instead of 24 inches on center, Which is what my bathroom has, I think it’s 16 inch studs though. You’d probably be okay. The 24 inch on center Just gave a little more flex than I’d prefer after install, And then I did one more dry fit of all the walls to make sure the furring strips are in the right place.

I pre-drilled the flanges at the stud locations to make the install quick once the adhesive is put on as well. The wall kit comes with double stick tape to help hold the wall to the furring strips while the adhesive sealant sets.

I used DAP 3.0 for the sealant, which is one of the three recommended products specifically for this acrylic material. Now a generous amount of adhesive is put onto each furring strip, and then we brought the back wall in We held it in place, making sure it was level to the marks that we made during the dry fit.

Then I secured it to the studs along the top flange and in this little screw recess in the accent tile channel. I pressed the rest of the wall firmly to the double sided tape and spread even pressure along the furring strips for good contact before installing the wall with applying pipes in it.

I put on the fire retardant pad provided in the kid and cutout for the mixing valve. I applied the sealant to the furring strips just like before, and then I wedged the wall piece. Then I secured the wall panel with screws and then I repeated the process for the left side.

The biggest thing to watch out for here is just to make sure that the sidewall, Our tights in the back before you secure them. So there aren’t any gaps in the corners and everything should have been leveled during your dry, fit and Hey.

If you’re new here and like what you’re seeing be sure to subscribe., I hope to see you around in the comments As a final step to help the wall set up firmly. I use some two by fours wedged against the tub to hold the bottom tight and left it all to set up for 24 hours.

The wall system has a nice subway tile look, but what really sets it apart is the custom accent channel to add your own style. We went with the hexagonal mosaic tile for this feature. I set up my tile saw and I used an extra floor tile clamped to the table as a zero clearance cutting surface Cutting a shallow line in the tile lets.

You see exactly where the cut will be, And it also gives you support to cut small tiles which have a tendency to blow out and chip. I Cut down the tiles to the right height of the accident opening and then I cut the pieces to size for the beginning and ends of the channel And the tile install is quite a bit different than normal tile.

Install Regular mastic won’t stick to the acrylic. So again, here I had to use the special sealant, So first I caulk the corners to make sure that they were Watertight, and then I filled in that screw channel to seal the screws and also give a flat surface for the tiles.

After that, the sealant is applied. Just like the mastic and trialed with a v-notch trowel, I pressed the mosaic strips into the adhesive and I use small spacers to keep it from sliding down And the adhesive holds it firmly to the wall.

So you don’t need to worry about it. Falling off. Just sliding down Now. My biggest piece of advice here is to watch your edges on the top and bottom. I first started out applying too much of the caulk and it was globbing up on the edges and then I wasn’t putting enough on there And it wasn’t quite sticking the small tiles in place.

There’s a fine line between getting just the right amount of adhesion without getting a lot of squeeze out. There was definitely a little finagling to do with the gaps right between where the strips meet up, but I smooth it all out best.

I could and let it sit for another 24 hours to cure Now. The grounding stage is similar to other grouting. The only thing you need to do here is mask off the surrounding areas. I use some painters, tape and some clear plastic to keep the grout from scratching the acrylic.

Then I mixed up some unsanded grout and I worked it into the mosaic tiles. I did both of the sidewalls first and I came back and wiped off the excess grout With a sponge before it could dry too much and become difficult to remove.

Then I moved onto the back wall and I did the same process there. After that, I decided to remove the tape and work the grout joints a little bit around the edges. I’M glad I did this because I definitely had some bleed over and working the joints now before they fully hardened.

Let me still shape them and correct any issues. I dinished up for the day by buffing off as much of the grout haze as I could, then I came back and got the rest Of it. The next day, The last piece to button up the shower surround was to caulk all the seams.

I taped off the seams with painters tape and I used a grout caulk to match the grout that I used for the accent strips. It was a little messy on that right, side. So, on the left side, I went ahead and taped that seam as well.

For the acrylic seams, I went back to the DAP 3.0 and caulked all the seams, using my finger to smooth everything out and then removing the tape. Honestly, though, I’d look into the other two recommended cocks for this task, because after a couple of weeks, the DAP is already a dingy White and we haven’t even used the shower yet And with the shower all buttoned up, I moved on to repairing the drywall I Covered up the back wall in the lower portions of the side wall, with some straight drywall strips For the corners, I cut l-shaped pieces out using my multi-tool.

The multi-tool is great for cutting odd, shaped pieces and drywall, and it really makes short work of it. Using an l-shaped piece instead of two connecting straight pieces, also makes mudding and blend in the corners much easier.

I taped and applied my initial coat of drywall mud to the seams and the screw holes. I’M not particularly good at drywall, but I make up for it by enjoying it even less. In total, I did four coats of mud sanding between each one, And one thing: I’ve learned along the way is it’s much better to do more light coats than to try to do fewer thicker coats.

Thick coats just take way too long to dry and is prone to shrinkage. Nobody likes shrinkage Before installing the shower hardware. I turned over the painting to Susan and she knocked it out. We put up a nice light gray.

That goes well with a simple modern. Look that we’re going for, I hung up the new light fixture to give us some better light, and then I moved on back to the shower. When I tried to install the mixing valve cover, though I realized the hole that I’d cut wasn’t quite large enough.

I should have cut it much law to allow servicing the mixer valve, But at this point I just wanted to open it up enough for the cover to fit. So I used my rotary tool to widen the opening. The fixtures I’m using are the Everly line from Delta.

We really liked their look and feel in the curves of the handles in The tub spout. Has this fun little twist to it That just gives it some great character and they both just screw on in our set in place.

I also added sealant on both pieces to avoid water leakage into the wall. The showerhead was the last piece to be installed. It definitely gives the shower a more custom feel also. I finished off the renovation by installing a new Delta toilet, a vanity with the everly style, faucet and a mirror.

These are all easy to install in the upgraded versions. We went with really transformed the look in the feel of this small bathroom now I’ll have links in the description to all the items. I used in this remodel.

Hey, I got another video queued up for you. Just click right there It’ll take you right over if you’re not subscribed to the channel. Already I’d love to have you as part of the team and until next time guys get out there and build something awesome.

Source : Youtube